On the Colorado River, rugged Palisade is the perfect headquarters for a post-ride hang. The introduction of Palisade Plunge, an absolutely epic new mountain bike trail, is reason enough to visit the western Colorado town. Lucky enough, there are plenty of other great spots to get your fill of good brews, stoke, and relaxation.
BIKE
Rapid Creek Cycles offers rental bikes and a $35-per-person shuttle for the 1.5-hour drive to the trailhead. The nearby town of Fruita has fantastic desert single-track at 18 Road—Zippity, PBR and Chutes and Ladders are classic trails.
SHOOT
Cameo Shooting Complex is a 1,700-acre facility with electronic-scoring shooting and archery bays; sporting clay ranges; and 3D archery trail loops with life-size foam targets.
Like the locals, Pêche and Palisade Brewing Company are hearty and eclectic.Courtesy Image
EAT
Palisade Café & Wine Bar bases meals around local produce and wine. Pêche. does everything from Thai-fried chicken and fresh lamb to port short ribs and charred ribeye. Like peaches? Sweet Cheeks Peach Stand serves seven varieties of organic peaches on 20 acres.
CRASH
Spoke & Vine is a renovated 1950s-era motel catering to trail riders with cruiser bikes, craft beer and cornhole. Within walking distance of town, its welcoming website banter—“If you’re ‘high maintenance’ this might not be the place for you.”—sets the tone.
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As of November 15, the start of tourist season, Cuba is easing its travel restrictions, according to Lonely Planet. This includes stopping requiring COVID tests for vaccinated travelers and no longer requiring mandatory quarantine for all visitors unless they contract the novel coronavirus during their travels. That said, and last updated on July 26, 2021, The U.S. State Department warns visitors against travel there, giving it the highest travel advisory warning: 4. “Do not travel to Cuba due to COVID-19,” it says. “Exercise increased caution in Cuba due to demonstrable and sometimes debilitating injuries to members of our diplomatic community resulting in the drawdown of embassy staff.”
Protests have continued in the largest and most populated country in the Caribbean since mid-July. Most recently, on Nov. 15, The New York Timesreported a fizzled nationwide protest called the Civic March for Change, which saw the homes of dissidents surrounded by armed police officers. Protesters planned to continue on their marches that started last summer where they demanded “food, medicine and liberty,” the Times reports. It continues, “In recent days, fearing violence, they toned down their plans.”
With its warm waves, classic cars, and scattered colonial-era buildings, Cuba is a world-class destination. Though the country thrives off tourism—with people staying in its many historic hotels and feasting on the Caribbean and Spanish fare—there’s a push-pull effect between the local economy and the government.
Due to international travel restrictions, Cuba is only allowing direct flights to its capital city, Havana. Because of trade embargoes, the country is still not importing certain goods or services, including cars and planes. Humanitarian supplies are not restricted.
Tourism is allowed in the Caribbean island 90 miles south of Florida but it’s not straightforward. “Travel to Cuba for tourist activities remains prohibited by statute,” says the U.S. Embassy in Cuba. It continues, “However, the Department of Treasury’s Office of Foreign Assets Control (OFAC) has issued general licenses for 12 categories of travel.”
In December 2015, Obama opened the country up to tourism, but in 2019 under Trump, the U.S. banned all flights to Cuba except to Havana. To travel to Cuba, visitors must pick one of a dozen authorized travel categories. (Many outlets recommend using “The Support for the Cuban People” category.) Despite these restrictions, the country continues to welcome visitors. Cubans want Americans to come, but it’s the American policies on Cuba that keep visitors out. That and the ongoing civil unrest. Despite its restricted ports of entry, Cuba is experiencing a period of rapid growth internationally, including millions of Canadians and Europeans who travel there annually.
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“We encourage tourism by working solely with the private sector,” Hasta Cuba former spokesperson Max Nelson says. “We support Cuban small business entrepreneurs, like restaurant chefs who are putting their money together to open their businesses. This way, the money that comes in goes directly to the people.”
With a population of 11 million—and the same length as Italy—the country is more extensive than people realize. Even though new buildings are going up, and some old structures are maintained, others are slowly crumbling away. Dating from colonial times up until 1960, much of the country looks like a land where time stands still.
In some areas, construction cranes are busy rebuilding parts of the capital. “What catches people by surprise is how gorgeous Havana is,” Nelson continues. “It has a really rich history. Their economy was great in the ’40s and ’50s, but in the past 60 years, it hasn’t been fixed up. It’s just now getting improved in the last decade or two.”
Cuba is changing every day and it’s that change that makes this the most important time to visit.
Due to hot, humid summers and hurricane season, it’s best to visit Cuba from November through May. And for those who want to see more than the standard tourist affairs—Cuban cigars and taxi rides in 50s-era cars—there are also emerging activities like rock climbing, hiking, surfing, kayaking, and mountain biking.
Info on surfing in Cuba is available through SurfLibre.org and MagicSeaWeed.com. Areas include Yumuri, outside the city of Baracoa in the south, and La Setenta, which is just outside Havana.
“The Cuba Unknown” is a film of local legendary surfers Frank and Yaya on how riding waves in their home country changed their lives. Film director Corey McLean told Surf Line that although Havana in the north is the most popular destination for tourists, the other side of the island—despite being less developed—is better for waves. “Southern Cuba is quite good…endless potential. All of these points, reef breaks, and just cove after cove after cove. With a decent swell, that area would have like 20 different spots,” he said.
MTBproject.com describes 11 mountain biking areas, with trails ranging from four to 33 miles. Mountain biking info is available through Mogote Adventure. Free Hub Magazine released a feature story on mountain biking in Cuba and a video. The piece describes riding the tallest mountain in Cuba, Pico Turquino (6,476’), located in the southeast part of the island.
Last year, American climber Sasha DiGiulian visited western Cuba to climb outside the town of Viñales, and she made a video of her ascent of the 5.14 “One Inch Punch.”
The climbing website Mountain Project says the walls surrounding Viñales have more than 250 routes with plenty of potential for more. Viñales has three main spots, Mogote del Valle, which has many easy lines and also many hard ones, El Palenque, known for its large caves and tufa climbing, and La Costanera with its 30 routes.
“There’s no mainstream culture here of doing these adventure sports, but now there’s this thriving community there that is pushing for new adventures,” Nelson says.
For info on kayaking in Cuba, see these stories in Men’s Journal. Areas described include Guama, in the south, and Cienfuegos, Guajimico, and Hanabanilla in central Cuba.
As for hiking, Lonely Planet recommends several areas known for their “mist-cloaked valleys, looming mogote hills and biologically rich reserves.” These include the Varahicacos Ecological Reserve on a narrow peninsula in the north, plus trails in Viñales, and hiking to the summit of Pico Turquino.
“Because of this explosion of interest and change, now is the best time to visit,” continued Nelson.
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There are many precautions to consider when you head into the wilderness for a hike or camping trip, but one of most important scenarios to prepare for is a possible bear encounter. From avoiding bears to knowing what to do if you encounter one, proper bear safety is an essential backcountry skill.
North America is home to three species of bears: polar bears, brown bears (which includes grizzlies), and black bears. Polar bears are only found in the northern reaches of Canada and Alaska, so you won’t encounter them unless you’re venturing into those regions. Brown bears, meanwhile, are found in western Canada, Alaska, and in states like Montana, Idaho, Wyoming, and Washington. Black bears have an even larger range: They can be found across the northern, eastern, and western United States and just about all of Canada. In other words, brown bears and black bears are the ones you’ll want to be vigilant for on your next excursion.
Bear attacks are extremely rare. Bear-related deaths are rarer still. Even so, attacks are on the rise this year, and it’s a reminder of what can go wrong if the proper bear safety precautions aren’t taken. So how can you prepare yourself for possible bear encounters—and possible bear attacks—next time you’re off the grid? We asked Bruce Zawalsky from Boreal Wilderness Institute, a school that offers bear awareness courses, to get us up to speed. Here’s what you need to know to stay safe in bear country.
How to Avoid Bears
Rule No. 1 of bear safety is to avoid bears altogether. The good news is that bears will generally steer clear of you. Still, there are times of year when your odds of running into a potentially dangerous bear increase. Younger bears are generally more active in the spring, says Zawalsky, while mothers and cubs are especially active in the fall as they forage for food to survive the winter.
No matter the season, there are a few key tactics to follow to encourage bears to stay away: Make plenty of noise and keep any smells that would interest a bear to a minimum.
“The human voice is the best way to tell bears in the area that you are around,” Zawalsky tells Men’s Journal. “Bears—blacks and grizzlies—understand you are in the area and will normally steer clear or simply let you pass by, often without you ever knowing they’re around.”
Reducing smells will also make you less attractive to bears. Avoid bringing especially smelly food with you, don’t wear colognes or perfumes, wash your clothes, and make sure all your food and garbage is properly sealed.
“Interesting scents and smells attract bears, who have an excellent sense of smell—much better than humans do,” says Zawalsky.
How to Prepare for Bear Encounters
Even if you take the precautions listed above, there’s still a chance you’ll run into a bear. You want to be well prepared for such an event.
The best thing you can do, according to Zawalsky, is stock up on bear spray, which is essentially a supercharged can of pepper spray. Make sure you know how to deploy the spray before you set out. For example, you don’t want to fire the bear spray into the wind (you’ll only end up in a cloud of it yourself), and you don’t want to inadvertently deploy the spray behind the bear, as that could drive the animal in your direction.
Other bear safety products like bear bangers—basically a roman candle deployed from a pen-shaped launcher—can also be effective but should not replace bear spray.
“Bear spray is the best thing on the market,” Zawalsky says. “To help drive away a problem bear you can use bear bangers or a whistle, but bear spray should be carried for easy one-handed deployment.”
Proper technique is essential when using bear spray: a two second blast at a slight downward angle while moving your arm in a circular motion. Aim for the bear’s eyes and nose. Zawalsky recommends this video to familiarize yourself with bear spray.
“Learn to use it before you travel into the wilderness,” he says.
What to Do When You See a Bear
If you see a bear at a significant distance, your best option is to give it a wide berth and keep moving—particularly if the bear doesn’t seem to notice you. If the bear notices you but doesn’t approach, speak to the bear in a normal but firm voice. Ideally, it will either stay put or leave the area.
“Talk to the bear in a normal voice and in most cases the bear will leave,” Zawalsky says. “Until it gets within 25 meters or so [roughly 80 feet] this works great.”
What to Do if a Bear Approaches You
If a bear starts getting too close for comfort, it’s time to start taking serious measures. Talking to the bear is still important, but blowing a whistle or deploying a bear banger can also be helpful. Just be careful not to shoot the bear banger behind the bear, as this could scare it in your direction. Aim for the ground in front of it. You also want to prepare to use your bear spray, which is best deployed at close range.
“After [a bear gets closer than 25 meters] make a bit more noise,” Zawalsky says. “Use your whistle or bear bangers at it approaches. If it gets closer, draw your bear spray and be prepared to use it.”
Remember that bear spray is a short-range deterrent. Its effective range is between three and five meters (roughly 10 to 16 feet), Zawalsky says.
“If you can, leave the area by walking slowly away from the bear and continuing to talk to it as you go,” he adds.
What to Do if a Bear Attacks
Let’s talk about the worst-case scenario. All your preventive measures have failed, and a bear is charging in to attack you. Zawalsky pulls no punches here: This is a life-or-death situation, and you need to do whatever you can to survive.
No option is off-limits in a situation like this, but there are a few strategies that could serve you well. Bear spray can still be effective in an attack situation, and any number of wilderness tools can be repurposed into weapons in a pinch. Zawalsky recommends targeting the sensitive areas of the bear’s face.
“Use another blast of bear spray or simply stick the canister in its mouth,” he says. “Fight back with anything you have, including a pocket knife, axe, or even a rock.”
No matter what weapon you use, focus on hitting the bear in its eyes, nose, and ears.
“Keep fighting,” says Zawalsky, “you are fighting for your life.”
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Are you an experienced climber who wants to help out aspiring alpinists get more comfortable in the mountains? Or a novice mountaineer that needs a bit of assistance to take your climbing game to the next level? Then you’ll want to apply to Tincup Whiskey and the American Alpine Club‘s second annual Partner In Adventure Grant, which opens for applications today.
The grant is meant to provide one person and their friend up to $1,000 to support “safe recreation” and help the “greater guiding community” take on new challenges and push people to gain the proficiency to achieve their lofty climbing goals. This inclusive chance is ideal for anyone who wants to further their outdoor education while spending time with a friend or partner.
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Last year the grant gave out $20,000 to 20 partners, who pitched course ideas like avalanche training, ski mountaineering, wilderness first responder, climbing development, gym to crag, and crevasse rescue. Peaks in the North Cascades like Mount Baker, Mount Rainier, and Mount Washington served as locales for some of these challenging training camps.
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Application guidelines include being 21 or older, a U.S. citizen with your objective in any of the 50 states, and a specific explanation as to why you’ve chosen your course and how you hope to achieve it. Those who get picked should be prepared to use their funds within one year of the grant award date, give a presentation about their grant, be an ambassador for the American Alpine Club, and practice environmentally low impact and Leave No Trace ethics.
The application period runs from October 1 to November 8, and winners will be announced on November 18. Interested adventurers can apply here.
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California’s New Brighton State Beach broke me. With every campground around Big Basin redwoods full, I dropped $35 for the park’s last vacant site only to find myself “camping” behind someone’s house in a residential subdivision. The glow from their TV, not my fire pit, lulled me to sleep.
The “Meinecke System” of public campgrounds—one-way loops with parking spurs—was laid out in the 1930s. In the 1950s, the National Park Service (NPS) undertook the $2 billion “Mission 66” program to upgrade the system “to the new age of automobile tourism.” Since then? Zilch.
“Mission 66 was the last ‘consistent, ambitious, system-wide development program,’ ” reported the NPS in 2020. What’s changed since the ’50s? Start with RVs, trailers, trucks the size of toolsheds, generators, bikes, portable loungers, full kitchens and myriad apparatus produced by the $890 billion camping industry that’s buffaloed the average camper’s footprint beyond John Muir’s worst nightmare.
Oh, yeah, people. According to an NPS study, 2014 to 2018 saw a 22 percent increase in annual camping households and a 72 percent bump in those who camp more than three times a year. That was before the COVID-inspired surge in outdoor recreation.
The NPS system spreads more than 6 million annual overnight visits across just 502 “front-country campgrounds” (i.e., car camps) with 16,648 campsites. More than 40 percent of those sites are located in six marquee parks (Yosemite, Glacier, et al.), leaving parks like Arches in Utah with just 50 sites. No wonder campgrounds have become such cheek-to-jowl zoos that 11 percent of people recently surveyed said they simply opted not to camp rather than face the hassles at NPS campgrounds.
The 2020 Great American Outdoors Act won’t build new campgrounds—it’s devoted to backlogged maintenance. President Biden has asked for $2 trillion in infrastructure funds and in June proposed $2.8 billion for outdoor recreation. Part of that should be used on a well-funded national program that isn’t afraid to knock down a few trees on the way to expanding a 20th-century idea to meet 21st-century growth. Airports, highways, bridges? Absolutely. But while we’re printing money, let’s not neglect those places accessed by the roads less traveled.
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Smack in the Pacific, thousands of miles from the nearest landmass, the Hawaiian Archipelago is as isolated as it gets. It’s the world capital of endemism—with one of the highest numbers of species existing nowhere else on Earth. There are more endangered species per square mile here than anywhere else, making the islands of Hawaii one of the planet’s most unique—and uniquely vulnerable—ecosystems.
Prior to human influence, new plants and animals carried by wind and water were incredibly rare here. A single new species made this commute every 50,000 years or so. Today, invasive species arrive in Hawaii once every 18 days. Most of the species on the island today co-evolved over millennia, creating a diverse and stable balance. Add in one dominant species though, leave it unchecked, and Hawaii’s delicate ecosystem is in trouble.
Environmental imbalance can be tough to gauge globally, but in Hawaii it’s felt almost immediately. Invasive deer, pigs, goats, sheep, and cattle are responsible for widespread destruction of lowland and native ecosystems, including critical watersheds.
What’s the largest invasive threat of all in Hawaii at present? No question, the seemingly benign Axis deer—a relatively new species surging toward a monoculture.
Muise and his team aim to monitor and manage Mauiʻs Axis deer population to a healthy carrying capacity.Lucianna McIntosh
Multiplying like… deer
In 1959, nine Axis deer were introduced to the island of Maui. Today, their population threatens to soar to hundreds of thousands, compromising the island’s open space if they aren’t managed effectively.
Enter Maui Nui Venison, a company founded on a single goal: tackling this problem head-on in a grounded and environmentally sound way.
“We’re never going to have sales goals,” says company founder and CEO Jake Muise. “We’re only going to have management goals.”
Maui Nui officially opened for business last year, but it’s been in the works for over a decade. The catalyst dates back to a clerical mistake during Muise’s college years. A native of northern Canada, he moved to Hawaii and was accidentally placed in an all-Polynesian dorm. This led to extended stays with local families over the holidays who familiarized him with the island’s Axis deer (over)population.
“It started with recreational bow hunting,” Muise recalls. “Eventually, figuring out a way to manage this invasive species became my biggest passion.”
NIght shift. The Maui Nui Venison crew.Courtesy Image
A win-win business idea is hatched
For his capstone project, Muise wrote a business plan mimicking New Zealand’s deer management program.
“My thesis was completely wrong,” notes Muise. “You can’t domesticate Axis deer. But it did put me on a path toward starting a non-profit—the Axis Deer Institute, which eventually became Maui Nui Venison.”
Muise’s first project out of college was removing four Axis deer that had been illegally introduced to the Big Island—a 90,000 square mile area. Despite very few invasive species projects being successful in Hawaii, this one was.
“That spurred a lot of conversations in Maui,” says Muise. “Eventually we realized that to be effective on an island-wide basis, we couldn’t rely on the grant process for funding. That led to the creation of Maui Nui.”
By working with large landowners across the island, Muise and his team aim to monitor and manage Mauiʻs Axis deer population to a healthy carrying capacity. “Having the Axis deer viewed as a resource instead of an invasive species is ultimately best at every angle—for people and the animal too,” says Muise.
Populations of Axis deer are located using Forward Looking Infrared (FLI) technology, which detects heat signatures.Lucianna McIntosh
Maui Nui’s method starts with data. All its venison is sourced from the field—a process unique to the company. Using Forward Looking Infrared (FLI) technology to detect heat signatures, the Maui Nui crew is able to compile deer population surveys and assess large areas with strikingly accurate population density predictions—of about 95 percent.
“This helps us understand resource availability and explain to landowners the cost of deer on their property,” says Muise. “It also forces us to be accountable and harvest responsibly.”
Jake Muise gearing up for the night shift.Courtesy Image
Night time’s the right time…
All the harvesting is done at night. It’s less stressful for the deer, which are never baited, fenced, penned, or corralled. Thanks to the absence of natural predators and seasonal swings, Axis deer experience minimal stress in general. “When animals are stressed, they rapidly deplete sugar stores and lactic acid levels, causing serious effects on meat texture and flavor,” Muise explains. “Our effort to source stress-free is an ethical choice—and a difference you can taste.”
Using a mobile slaughter facility, Maui Nui also does its processing in the wild, while following the regulations of a brick-and-mortar facility. The company’s mobile harvesting process is both USDA and FDA approved, with a USDA inspector for the duration of the harvest and a USDA veterinarian to inspect every animal.
“We only have a three-hour window every night, so the only way to make it happen is to bring the processing part with us,” says Muise.
Night shift. The Maui Nui Venison crew.Courtesy Image
Balance is the key
Thankfully, with years of collected data on Axis deer, Maui Nui is able to harvest with incredible efficiency. Muise says their database details every deer sighting, bullet fired, and weather condition from each harvest along with any other factors that enable effective tracking. “We’re able to harvest seven deer in an hour,” says Muise. “That pace wouldn’t be possible without all the data we’ve collected.”
Muise and his team spent years flying in inspectors from Oahu, all out of pocket. Using a local inspector since last year, Maui Nui can perform up to 14 harvests each month, creating a more consistent supply of venison. The company employs 16 full-time staff—and counting. The company is growing, but the standard exponential growth model isn’t the vision here.
Maui Nui recently partnered with Patagonia Provisions, to scale distribution and gain market exposure.
“I’ve always looked up to Yvon [Chouinard] for his tireless focus on environmentalism while growing a sustainable business. We don’t plan to work with many companies, but Provisions was a perfect fit. We needed their help to tell our story and educate more people. A big part of their business model is to find smaller producers—farmers, fishermen, and hunters like us—to incorporate our products into their platform. It’s a mutually beneficial relationship. And they support our mission of management before profits,” says Muise.
The goal is to achieve balance, working with major landowners to help them manage Axis deer to a population that works with the ecosystem. The population curve is on pace to quickly triple, so time is of the essence.
Once that benchmark is reached, Maui Nui won’t get any bigger. “We’ll actually get smaller, which I guess makes this a fairly odd business structure,” Muise laughs. “Hopefully we’ll be here in three years.”
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In the Westfjords region of Iceland—a giant, serrated peninsula jutting out of the country’s remote northwest—the only thing possibly outnumbering the jellyfish are the waterfalls. Like tentacles in their own right, they cascade from lava-topped plateaus thousands of feet above. There are simply too many to count. I lose track at 23. Put both hands together and the spaces between your fingers represent all the fjords ripe for exploring.
“Dad—look! There’s a chandelier of jellyfish down there.”
It hits me on Day 4 of a six-day sea kayak trip through northwest Iceland’s Hornstrandir Nature Reserve that it’s my daughter who should be the writer.
Her description is spot on. Hovering in the sea below us is an illuminating carpet of enormous, slimy lion’s mane jellyfish, their orange tentacles draping into the depths. Sure, they might lack brains, blood and hearts—but they make up for it in tendrils that flow like Medusa.
“Remember that one place we had lunch—the spot without a waterfall?” my daughter asks me at one point. Deep in Iceland cataract country, that’s the only way to narrow it down.
How to Get to Iceland’s Hornstrandir Nature Reserve
You can fly from Reykjavik to the seaside village of Ísafjörður in under an hour.Joel Rohland/Unsplash
A quick, 40-minute flight from Reykjavik to the seaside village of Ísafjörður leads us to our kayaking group at the warehouse headquarters of Borea Adventures—led by our Polish guides, Anula and Piotr. This six-day trip is the company’s most advanced paddling offering. Our fellow crew members, all sea kayakers at heart, come from all over—including Germany, Denmark, Israel and the U.S.
Soon we’re loading our sea kayaks aboard Borea’s boat “Bjarmi” and motoring across the fjord toward Hesteyri, an old homesite known as the “Doctor’s House” (pictured above).
Formerly owned by the only doctor in the region and now converted into Borea’s bunkhouse, it’s one of the few old structures still standing in the entire reserve.
Borea is owned by Rúnar Karlsson and his wife, Nanný Guðmundsdóttir, both born and raised in Ísafjörður. A former Boy Scout, Rúnar is a classic Icelandic do-it-all-er. He’s an avid skier, paraglider, ice and rock climber, and sea kayaker, who leads mountaineering and avalanche courses for the Icelandic Rescue Team Association.
Choosing Your Borea Adventures Endeavor
While the majority of Borea trips are hiking- and backpacking-related, the outfitter hosts a fair number of sea kayaking trips during peak season. With a four-star kayaking certification from the prestigious British Canoe Union, Rúnar, who’s also led paddling expeditions to nearby Greenland, holds these sea kayaking adventures close to his heart, especially those in his beloved Hornstrandir.
“Hornstrandir is just a world of its own—there’s no other area in Iceland like it,” says Runar, whose father was born here as well as Nanný’s grandmother. “Its untouched coastline, fjords, bays and cliffs are so linked to the histories of our ancestors who lived here isolated for centuries,” adds Runar. “The fjords have no signs of human presence—not even a fence post. It’s totally protected. Nature rules the land.”
Right on cue, a humpback whale surfaces off the boat’s port side and a pair of dolphins arc along the horizon. Countless seal heads later, we spot the “Doctor’s House”—a lone white square standing out like a golf ball on a putting green. Towing three kayaks at a time, we shuttle to shore in a Zodiac to a dock matching the overcast sky.
Stashing our gear on the front porch, we enter the tiny, old cottage. The mudroom hints of the abode’s ancestry. Next to old-school scissors and suture kits, jars on a shelf display labels from another era: “Chloroform,” Formaldehyde,” Spiritus Forte,” “Lidocain,” and “Chloral Hydrate.”
Jonatan Pie/Unsplash
A sign on the wooden wall reads “Laeknishusid Hesteyri”—Doctor’s House. It’s as if we stepped back in time 100 years.
In the afternoon, we test paddle our empty boats up the fjord. Tomorrow they’ll be packed with gear. Right away we know we’re in for a treat. Even the waterfalls get reflected off the fjord’s mirror-like water—crystal clear—falling twice as far.
That evening we feast on a dinner of lamb shank with cabbage, peas, and potatoes with butter sauce. In the window, a brown Arctic fox scampers around outside, sniffing for scraps, while our guides, Anula and Piotr, share stories of elves and troll folklore, sea kayaking Greenland, and even polar bears.
The last such ursus to float over on an iceberg and land in Iceland was five years ago. There have also been some amusing false alarms.
The Coast Guard recently responded to an ostensible pile of polar bear poop on a nearby peninsula. It turned out to be from a swan. Another “bear” report concluded with a Yeti-like sheep that had lost its flock and wintered solo, emerging with a massive, shaggy wool coat.
Over fresh rhubarb pie for dessert, the hut’s caretaker, Hrólfur Vagnsson, a professional musician, pulls out an accordion and sings a morose song about a thief caught stealing sheep for his family. Later, he grabs a lamgspil, a type of Icelandic violin, down from the wall and plays a song whose notes are as drawn-out as the neighboring fjords.
The next morning, after a Euro-breakfast of toast, hardboiled eggs, ham, cheese and jams, we paddle 18 kilometers across the fjords of Hesteyrarfjörður and Veiðileysufjörður. Spying several puffins en route, we learn that people do, in fact, eat these birds “down south.” This, of course, prompts a series of jokes about Puffin McNuggets and Kentucky Fried Puffin. But they’re too cute to even mull such thoughts.
Kayaking to Kviar
I pass seven waterfalls in just 100 strokes, all ribboning down from the ice cap high above. It’s one of the country’s many glaciers, including Vatna, Europe’s largest at 3,000 square miles and 3,000 feet deep. Here, they’ve all receded enough that only the ice cap remains. Rounding a point, the wind picks up, swallowing the calm seas. We group up before our next crossing.
Soon we see our next hut, a mere 13 waterfalls away.
A harbor seal escorts us to shore, where we pull our kayaks onto a cobblestone beach.
On the top of a small hill bordered by a creek in a tight ravine is our home, Kviar, nestled in the Kvíadalur Valley. Like Hesteyri, it’s one of the only cottages in the entire preserve. Built in 1921, the farmhouse has been owned by the same family since 1948—now outfitted with bunks to sleep 12 and a Danish-made diesel oven for heat. Elsewhere, geothermal power could’ve heated the home, as it does 85 percent of all Icelandic houses.
A group of hikers is already there, waiting for a boat pick-up. Perfect time for a quick stroll up the creek behind the cottage before a dinner of lamb shank stew with fresh rhubarb jam.
Later, we hop in a wood-fired sauna, dropping various oils into the water bucket, which we dab on, creating aromas of eucalyptus and lavender. Tiny, stone troll figurines watch from the windowsill.
Soon, we’re running down the path and cannonballing into the midnight ocean.
On the next day’s paddle, it takes a while for the first waterfall to show. But when it resolutely does, like a peacock’s tail feathers, others soon follow—their plumage cascading from high above. Heading against a strong wind coming off the ice cap and up into Lónafjörður fjord, we decide to break into two groups, befitting a country which harbors the world’s oldest democracy. While one party returns back to the cottage, we press on to the end of the fjord.
Soon a lush, green oasis appears, bordered by ribbons of white. A gull feather arcs over the water like a rainbow, its reflection completing a fluffy circle. Beneath yet another cascade at the small bay of Sópandi is a seal colony—its members periscoping up out of the kelp with curious glances.
Here Come the Swells
Four days in, our arms and shoulders are now familiar with the routine. We paddle an hour across Leirufjörður fjord (translation: “silty” for its glacial river). Spying the Drangajökull glacier to our left, we head to a far peninsula in quartering winds, aiming our bows at a sliver of snow high on the mountain. Like a doorman, a harbor seal welcomes us on the other side. Turning to parallel the coast, we see three Arctic foxes, two brown and one white, tumbling and wrestling down the hillside.
Downwind swells carry us along, even as we pass through a giant, double arch. We pay for this shortly afterwards with an upwind paddle to camp in Grunnavík bay off the fjord. More seals usher us into camp.
Sans iodine, we fill our bottles from a creek near camp, next to dandelions bobbleheading in the breeze. Our beer from a brewery in Ísafjörður was touted as being “percolated through 14 million years of lava rock.” Above us rises this natural filter, in the form of giant, flat-topped mountains still basking in alpenglow at 11:30 p.m.
Paddling down the coast another 15 miles the following day, my eyes take in eight waterfalls at once without moving my pupils. The image is about one two-hundredth of the country’s 3,000-mile coastline, but it feels like its own vast world.
Camp is in a flat grassy area filled with a Stonehenge of giant, white swan feathers and golf ball-esque, puffy white flowers. High above us, four waterfalls disappear into the ground before re-emerging as four more, then three, before finally cascading into the ocean.
Yet another cascade, the towering Möngufoss waterfall, a crown jewel of the reserve, thunders just down the coast.
The waterfalls owe themselves to both the glaciers that feed them as well as the impervious lava cliffs that force them into freefall.
Over the last 500 years, a third of the planet’s lava flow has come from Iceland’s 200 volcanoes. Its best-known, Hekla, erupted four times in the 20th century, most recently in 1991. Eyjafjallajökull blew in March 2010 for the first time since 1821 and again in April 2020, disrupting international air traffic.
We’re in a land of raw, earthen power.
Dinner tonight happens at nearly midnight. None of us mind. Who wants this day to ever end?
Our longest open-water crossing—about 5.5 miles—is reserved for our final day.
Paddling this rough, grueling stretch, we’ll be staying in as tight a formation as the Arctic terns flying above us. These incredible birds have the longest earthly migration possible—up to 44,000 miles per year, from Antarctica to the Arctic and back. Our crossing is somewhat shorter—thankfully, given the two-foot-high swells rolling in from where the North Atlantic meets the Greenland Sea.
This is the same stretch the Vikings sailed when they founded the country in the 9th century. Next up, the Norse and Celtic seafarers, who often staged here to explore Greenland.
Looking west to where Greenland somewhere lies, I spy only churning sea and a couple of dolphins.
Safely across, we head west, paralleling the coast to another fjord, where we see our first road in six days.
It takes a sharp turn, perhaps, as folklore maintains, detouring around a stubborn boulder rumored to be inhabited by trolls.
Another flock of birds swarms us—this time a chunky convoy of cartoonish puffins, nun-like with their white underbellies, black tops, and orange beaks matching the sclera of their eyes and webbed feet. Flapping madly to help their football-shaped bodies and oversized bills overcome gravity, they dart like Star Wars starfighters, seemingly posing and grinning as they fly overhead.
It’s a formation, I muse, that almost resembles a … chandelier.
Blue Lagoon IcelandCourtesy of Blue Lagoon Iceland
Know Before You Go
Getting There
Icelandic Air offers direct flights from 10 major U.S. cities, from Seattle to Boston. Once you arrive, catch the FlyBus from the airport to downtown Reykjavik, where you can walk to restaurants, bars, museums, the wharf and more. Taxis are prevalent and friendly — maybe because there’s no Uber (‘It’s too expensive to drive,” said our cabby, Sam).
Dining
If you go to one restaurant in Reykjavik, make it The Fish Co. in the heart of downtown—voted the city’s best seafood nine years running. Headed by owner and master chef Lárus Gunnar Jónasson, it blends Nordic fusion with Icelandic cuisine. Try the sushi platter, salted cod, or melt-in-your-mouth, slow-cooked Arctic Char with apple jam, smoked emulsion, beer-glazed sunchokes, and a dill, vinaigrette beer foam. It’s all served by a friendly staff in the stone-walled old Zimsen house, a former store built in the 19th century.
Lodging
Accommodations in Reykjavik runs the gamut from hostels to chains and trendy boutiques. Our fave: the 100-year-old Borg Hotel, right on the downtown square with access to parks, restaurants, bars, museums the wharf and more. Once the site of classic dance balls, it offers a classic Icelandic breakfast buffet, a full bar (often with live music), and quaint rooms with porches overlooking the square.
Famous Spas
Opening in May, Sky Lagoon is Reykjavik’s newest springs and spa, complete with a hot spring-filled infinity pool overlooking the ocean, hot spring waterfall, and seven-step spa treatment featuring cold plunge; glass-walled sauna overlooking the bay; cool mist room; sea salt/sesame oil body scrub; steam room; shower; and hot spring soak (try its swim-up bar).
Soaked in by locals for more than 1,000 years, the more famous Blue Lagoon also offers geothermal seawater, spa experiences, and even a skin care line. Named one of 25 Wonders of the World by National Geographic, a 2018 expansion created the Retreat at Blue Lagoon, adding a 62-room luxury hotel, subterranean spa and two restaurants. Bonus: Each soak comes with a three-mask treatment of silica, algae and mineral.
The Best Gear for Sea Kayaking in Iceland
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1. Hilleberg Tents
Hilleberg Tents are what people use up north. Their beauty: the fly and body are attached—meaning you can set them up in the rain without the inside getting wet. A vestibule nearly as large as the interior works great for stashing everything from drysuits and drybags to boots.
Bagging several Editors’ Choice awards, the new Sidewinder SL and Camp sleeping bags from Big Agnes—with treated down for water repellency—are designed especially for those who like sleeping on their sides. A long, ambidextrous zipper stays out of your way when rolling from side to side. This feature is especially handy when pivoting to peek out your tent to watch seals and distant whales.
Sea to Summit’s 20-liter compression sack drybag is perfect for condensing sleeping bags down to the size of a cantaloupe to fit into your kayak’s bow hatch. Waterproof and air-permeable eVent fabric, with a watertight, hypalon roll-top closure, keeps the water out even when waves from two-foot swells permeate your storage hatches. The lighter weight drysack also proves handy for day items bungeed to the deck rigging.
You don’t want to go into the drink in the North Atlantic, but if you do the front-entry Odin (and women’s Freya) drysuit from Level Six has you covered. Constructed of its toughest waterproof-breathable nylon, Exhaust 3.0, it shrugs off abrasion while keeping the elements where they belong. Features include a stealth double tunnel, 3-ply built-in socks, articulated spine, reinforced knees and elbows, relief zipper and adjustable waist-belt. Fleece-lined zipper pockets let you reach accessories while British latex wrist and neck gaskets keep you bone dry.
The Habanero from Kokatat is a paddler-designed, one-piece drysuit liner with a long front entry zipper and a second waist zipper that acts as a drop seat. A flap fly offers front relief, while the women’s liner has an “invisible” zipper for use with female urination devices. Heavyweight, four-way stretch fleece in the main body and lighter weight grid fleece in the underarms, cuffs, neck, and ankles is perfect for paddling. We lived in these liners—even at night.
There’s no doubt the overlanding scene has exploded in the last few years, with major auto manufacturers finally getting on the hype with special bespoke vehicles targeted squarely at off-road enthusiasts. And GMC is the latest to offer an overlanding special of a current model with the Canyon AT4 Ovrlandx concept truck, which was unveiled today at Overland Expo Mountain West 2021 in Loveland, Colorado.
The Canyon AT4 already had impressive 4×4 stats. The off-road-ready mid-size pickup boasted a 1” lift, skid plates, better break-over angles, an auto-locking rear diff, and hill-descent control. GMC just bumped them up with a bevy of upgrades and essential overlanding accessories. Off-road performance enhancements include sliders, cast-iron control arms, a heavy-duty front bumper with winch, integrated recovery points, front and rear auto-locking diffs, mud flares with an integrated light, a rear-mounted spare tire swivel on an AEV off-road bumper, and Multimatic dampers on the shocks for better on- and off-road control.
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Other off-road cred enhancements include a 27.7-degree approach angle and a ground clearance of 10 inches, which is gained by the addition of 33-inch BFGoodrich KM3 Mud-Terrain tires on 17-inch AEV Crestone wheels. A custom snorkel gives it better breathing by bringing cool, filtered air into the engine, while also allowing for the truck to challenge water crossings up to 32.1 inches deep.
“We wanted to showcase GMC Canyon with this concept and punctuate GMC’s commitment to premium, off-road capable vehicles. Consumer reaction to this concept’s design will help us further serve the growing market of buyers leading authentic outdoor lifestyles,” said Buick & GMC global vice president Duncan Aldred.
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It seems GMC is just getting started with this gamut of goodies by tapping some of the best overlanding gear brands to fully trick out the truck. A stainless steel truck bed cap opens up on each side to allow access to gear and a trick RSI SmartCap kitchen—not to mention the ability to mount a roof-top tent; solar panel; and a massive, 270-degree awning for wide-ranging protection from the elements.
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Inside the back of the truck GMC added a neat Decked drawer system to keep tools sorted, a Dometic electric cooler, and other overlanding essentials like jerry cans, traction boards, and a jack.
“The Canyon AT4 Ovrlandx concept truck was designed to balance functionality with aesthetics,” said John Owens, lead creative designer for the concept truck. “When you’re overlanding, capability is an important factor, but doing it with premium style and comfort elevates the experience even further for customers who truly want zero compromises.”
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We think GMC created an amazing, capable overlanding rig—based off of an already proven and popular base vehicle—the only pain point is this won’t be slated for production any time soon.
Though just a concept, it does give overlanders in the market for a new truck lots of ideas on how to make their own Canyon AT4 just that much more badass on the trail.
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All the most rewarding, impactful, and life-changing road trips I’ve taken have been on a motorcycle. Don’t get me wrong, I love hitting the highway in a car full of friends as much as the next person, but traveling on two wheels is a completely different animal.
My first big trip was a ride up the Pacific Coast Highway from Los Angeles to San Francisco on a big dual sport. After that I was hooked. Things took off from there as I explored the deserts of the West, toured juke joints outside of Austin, TX, got lost in the Smoky Mountains, and eventually found myself riding through South America on a big adventure bike.
As I see it, motorcycle travel is bucket list travel, and while I’ve crossed a hefty number of trips off my list, I’ve got a lot left to see. To that end, I’ve put together a list of the 25 top motorcycle trips here in the U.S. which I’d recommend—both from firsthand experience and reliable intel from older, wiser riders than myself.
Best Motorcycle Trips in the Northeast
Hudson Valley Wilderness Loop
steve007/Getty Images
The Route
Heavy traffic is no place for a motorcycle. Anytime I find myself in New York on business and need to get away for the weekend, I know there’s one motorcycle ride near me I can always count on for fresh air. Escape the city heading north on Highway 9, and keep on trucking along the Hudson River until you hit 23 West and cross the Rip Van Winkle Bridge. From here, you’ll enter Catskill State Park, then turn back south.
Making your way back to the city, you’ll roll through Minnewaska State Park before catching the 208 all the way down into Harriman State Park and up into Bear Mountain State Park. Next, you’ll cross Bear Mountain Bridge and make your way back to civilization, dropping back down on Highway 9 and completing the loop.
Where to Stay
If rustic cabins aren’t your thing, Hotel Mountain Brook is a great luxury lodge in the Catskills that splits this loop neatly in two. (Check out the 15 best hotels in the Catskills.) You’ve got no shortage of lodging around New York City proper, but consider getting a head start and booking a room up around Yonkers for convenience.
Insider Tip
This route clocks in at around 250 miles point to point, but there’s no rush to tackle it all in a single day. Between the beautiful parks, river views, and laundry list of historical sites like the Roosevelt Presidential Library and Vanderbilt Mansion, you’d be wise to take it slow and make a three-day weekend out of this loop.
Pennsylvania Push
Walter Bibikow/Getty Images
The Route
While most folks know Pennsylvania for Hershey’s chocolate and French fries on salad, it’s actually home to a surprising number of outstanding motorcycle roads. Roads like Route 666, Route 113, and Gold Mine Road are known for their challenging turns and epic views, while alternatives like Grand Army of the Republic Highway and the historic Lincoln Highway/30 West serve up a slower pace that feels custom-made for bagger touring.
Where to Stay
Cove Haven Resort offers up nice digs with views of the Pocono Mountains and Lake Wallenpaupack, while also being central to the Grand Army of the Republic Highway, which bisects the state for easy access to multiple areas.
Insider Tip
If you’ve got time, consider working Route 66 into your schedule as well. Both the route and scenery through Alleghany National Forest are worth the detour.
Vermont Smuggler’s Run
Tom Narwid/Getty Images
The Route
Head up into Cambridge over Mt. Mansfield viaRoute 108 (aka “Smuggler’s Notch”), hang a right on Route 15, then drop back down on Route 100 to get the full experience of Vermont’s rugged countryside. A day trip out to Mt. Washington is also a worthwhile detour—and right up to the summit via Mt. Washington Auto Road when weather permits.
Where to Stay
The Lodge at Spruce Peak Hotel is hands down the sweetest spot to stay in the area, and central to some of the best riding in the state of Vermont.
Insider Tip
While the lush green of spring and summer are beautiful in their own right,fall in Vermont is not to be missed. The riding weather is excellent, and autumn colors here are arguably the most dramatic in the country.
Best Motorcycle Trips in the Southeast
The Best of Daytona
The Route
Catch the A1A coastal highway outside of Jacksonville, FL, and ride south until you hit Daytona Beach proper. Once you’ve arrived, be sure to take advantage of the nearby “Ormond Scenic Loop” which runs north of the city through Bulow Creek State Park and Tamoka State Park before dropping you back out on the A1A at Flagler Beach. Remember, Daytona is one of the few places in the U.S. that allows you to ride your bike directly on the beach, so be sure to take advantage while you’re in town.
Where to Stay
There are dozens of resort hotels on Daytona Beach. I’ve never had a bad experience with a hotel in the area, but my favorites to date are either the Hard Rock or the Hilton Daytona Beach Oceanfront Resort.
Insider Tip
There are two reasons to bring a motorcycle to Daytona Beach: wild biker rallies and relaxation. If you want the former, plan on heading down at the beginning of March for the famed “Daytona Bike Week” or “Biketoberfest” at the end of October. If you want the latter, my favorite time to go is between April and May, as the race and party traffic subsides but the weather remains impeccable.
North Georgia Mountain Tour
Tom Wozniak/500px/Getty Images
The Route
I’ve lived in Georgia for years, and I’m always blown away by both the quality and quantity of outstanding rides around the Chattahoochee-Oconee National Forest area. The best route I’d point newcomers to is “The Gauntlet,” a 130-plus mile loop out of Suches that features several of the area’s finest roads, including Wolf Pen Gap Road, the Blood Mountain portion of US-129, and Highway 60. The Unicoi Turnpike north of Helen is also worth working into a loop if you’re looking for the full experience.
Where to Stay
While you could always dip into any number of nearby mountain hotels, tradition dictates that I recommend staying at Two Wheels of Suches, a motorcycle-focused resort that’s central to all the best riding in the area. I’ve also had great experiences at Kennedy Creek Resort just up the road from Two’s, which offers camping, cabins, and lodging as well as a full service restaurant and bar.
Insider Tip
Many of the area’s roads are tailor-made for dragging footpegs, but don’t rule out North Georgia’s abundance of dirt forest service roads either. The Smoky Mountain 500 off-road route runs straight through Suches for a reason.
Smoky Mountain Twist
Jill Lang/Getty Images
The Route
Three-hundred-eighteen curves in 11 miles along the Tail of the Dragon. High-speed, high-elevation sweepers on Cherohala Skyway. The old Moonshiner 28. The Smoky Mountains are home to the single greatest collection of twisty roads anywhere in the country—if not the world. This is where I cut my teeth on a sport bike as a teenager, and one I come back to as an adult as often as possible. People drive across the country to test their skills on these curves, and you should too.
Where to Stay
While we’ve typically stuck to cabin rentals on our trips to the Smokies, Fontana Village Resort is a longtime favorite in the area. Harrah’s Cherokee Casino is another favorite alternative if you fancy a little nightly entertainment, and also happens to have some of the most affordable rooms anywhere in the region.
Insider Tip
The Dragon’s Tail draws a lot of traffic, particularly on weekends, and the busier it gets, the more dangerous it becomes. If you want to test your skills on the gnarliest road in the country, I recommend either hitting it early in the morning, the middle of the week, or a combination of the two.
Blue Ridge Bucket-Lister
Pierre Leclerc Photography/Getty Images
The Route
Blue Ridge Parkway runs from Great Smoky Mountain National Park all the way up into Shenandoah National Park, spanning a whopping 469 miles across 20 different counties in North Carolina and Virginia. It starts along U.S. 441 and traces the ridge of the Blue Ridge chain through some of the most incredible mountain views of the southern U.S.
Where to Stay
While the Blue Ridge Parkway largely avoids dense population centers, it passes close enough to several cities for convenient lodging. We like to stop in Asheville, NC, for 100 different reasons—at least a dozen of which are top-notch breweries.
Insider Tip
If you’re looking to tackle the entire Blue Ridge Parkway for bragging rights, make sure you plan your trip in the warmer months. Sections of the road can be impassable for two-wheelers around winter due to snow and ice, so anything outside of late spring to early fall is asking for trouble.
Best Motorcycle Trips in the Midwest
Ozark Mountain Explorer
Peter Essick/Getty Images
The Route
What makes the area around the Ozark Mountains so special is there are more good roads than bad ones with epic views, endless switchbacks, and cool mountain towns in abundance anywhere you turn. Must-ride roads on the Arkansas side include Route 123 out of Mt. Judea (aka the “Arkansas Dragon”) and Route 23 from White Oak to Brashears (“The Pig Trail”). On the Missouri side, you’ll want to hit Hwy 125 from Sparta to Peels Ferry, then double back and take the detour up State Highway Uu (yep, double U)—also known as the Oldfield Loop.
Where to Stay
The small mountain town of Jasper is central to many of the great roads in the area, and also boasts a handful of restaurants within striking distance. You can stay at The Gordon Motel or Arkansas House River Inn if you want to keep it simple, but we recommend renting a cabin for the full experience.
Insider Tip
While “The Pig Tail” is as short as it is sweet, it packs a stunning amount of natural beauty into its north end. Go during the spring for a kaleidoscopic tour through massive blooms of wildflowers.
Black Hills Pilgrimage
Adam Hester/Getty Images
The Route
There’s much more to the Black Hills than Sturgis. The two-lane road SD 34/WY24 offers an excellent tour of the area, while Badlands National Park, Custer State Park, and Spearfish Canyon are all home to sweeping stretches of pavement as well.
Where to Stay
Lodges and boutique hotels are the norm in these parts, ranging from tiny B&Bs to larger venues like The Lodge at Deadwood.
Insider Tip
If you want to experience the hog-wild party that is the Sturgis motorcycle rally, it goes down in early August. Unfortunately, the influx of traffic also makes for crowded roads throughout the area, so get there well in advance of the rally to really enjoy the area.
Route 66 Rambler
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The Route
Nicknamed “The Main Street of America,” few motorcycle trips are quite as iconic as Historic Route 66. Spanning from Chicago all the way to Los Angeles, your trip may start in the Midwest, but the full monty doesn’t end until you hit the Pacific Ocean.
Where to Stay
It’s a long road, and you’ll have plenty of options, but the history of Route 66 was written from roadside motels. For the full experience, consider working several into your route: just follow the neon signs.
Insider Tip
While a ride down Route 66 is without a doubt one of the most epic motorcycle trips you can take, it’s more about sightseeing and soaking up culture than it is high-octane excitement. Leave the sport bike or hyper-naked at home and opt for something with a comfortable seat and ample wind protection. Cruise control comes in handy, too.
Great Lakes Roll
Kyle Stopczynski/Getty Images
The Route
The crown jewel of the Great Lake’s region is Michigan’s M-119, the aptly named “tunnel of trees” that runs along lake Michigan flanked on both sides by dense foliage. Unfortunately, M-119 only runs for about 20 miles, so we recommend making a loop using Hwy 31 and dropping down into Otsego Lake, heading east toward Twin Lakes, then into Fairview. You can take backroads back to the start, or just hop on I-75 for a straight shot home.
Where to Stay
Stafford’s Crooked River Lodge gets our vote. Clean rooms, a nice big fireplace, river access, and pool tables are just a few perks here between rides.
Insider Tip
While no motorcycles are allowed on Mackinac Island, it’s a great day trip to break up the riding. Shelper’s Ferry offers free day-use parking for motorcycles while you’re off exploring.
Best Motorcycle Trips Out West
Pride of the Pacific Tour
Doug Meek/Getty Images
The Route
For this trip, it’s all about California State Route 1, aka the Pacific Coast Highway (or PCH). You can start in Los Angeles if you want to cruise through Malibu and Point Mugu State Park or, if you’d rather cut to the chase, begin in Morro Bay outside of San Luis Obispo and head north. When I was living in California, this was the one motorcycle ride near me I savored more than any other. There’s simply nothing else like it in the country.
Where to Stay
Personally, I’ve always liked to stay and do a little motorcycle camping in the area, either inside Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park or in one of the privately owned campgrounds like Riverside Campground & Cabins. You’ll be hard-pressed to find vacancy anywhere on the main drag, but both Carmel and San Luis Obispo have clean hotels close enough to the action.
Insider Tip
While the views from the Pacific Coast Highway going through Big Sur are some of the finest in the country, there are dozens of hidden gems hidden just off the beaten path. If you’ve got a motorcycle you don’t mind riding on gravel roads, don’t be afraid to explore some of the offshoots that climb up away from the water. This is how I’ve stumbled on many of my favorite spots in the area, and that’s all I’m willing to share on the matter.
Rocky Mountain Run
Brad McGinley Photography/Getty Images
The Route
The natural Rocky Mountain beauty surrounding Colorado’s Million Dollar Highway runs from Silverton to Ouray along U.S. Route 550 (aka the San Juan Skyway)—an already stunning 233-mile expanse of asphalt. Elevations approaching 10,000 feet mean you’ll need to pack layers year-round, and avoid winter months completely.
Where to Stay
Lodge in Durango, and you’ll have the run of the San Juan Skyway with a solid, amenity-filled home base.
Insider Tip
Guardrails are few and the drop-offs are steep, so keep your eyes on the road and off the scenery out on the twisties.
San Diego Desert Tour
Sumiko Scott/Getty Images
The Route
I spent several years living in downtown San Diego, and my favorite motorcycle ride was always a weekend getaway to Anza-Borrego Desert State Park. Head east out of the city on I-8, then pick up Sunrise Highway for a scenic summit of Mt. Laguna.
Ride into Julian, then pick up Highway 78 into Anza-Borrego proper. Riding 78 is mainly about taking in the scenery, but if you’re up for a challenging detour, head north into the town of Borrego Springs and try your hand along the twists and turns of Montezuma Valley Road.
Where to Stay
You’ve got tons of options for lodging in downtown San Diego, ranging from the sky-high ocean views of Manchester Grand Hyatt to the riotous nightlife of Gaslamp District. If you’d rather stay out of the city, Borrego Valley Inn is the epitome of an old-school desert hotel, while the cozy little mountain town of Julian offers ample cabin rentals and some of the best apple pie I’ve ever stuck a fork in.
Insider Tip
There are hundreds of miles of Jeep trails to enjoy scattered around Anza-Borrego. Consider riding/renting an adventure bike with decent suspension and knobby tires to get the full desert experience.
Leaving Las Vegas Loop
Tim E White/Getty Images
The Route
Once I’ve put a sizable dent in my savings account at the craps table, I find peace knowing there’s no shortage of excellent motorcycle rides near me around Sin City. Take SR-167 up through the Valley of Fire, SR-159 through Red Rock Canyon, or SR-158 to the peak of Mt. Charleston while you contemplate the consequences of your poor financial decisions.
Where to Stay
Needless to say, you’ve got plenty of options for lodging in Las Vegas—but for the true “fear and loathing” cultural experience, I prefer to stay in “Old Vegas” in one of the nicer hotels around Fremont street, like Circa or The D.
Insider Tip
The riding around Las Vegas is truly a hidden gem, but the weather out in the desert can get downright brutal in the colder months. Late spring to early fall is your best bet without serious insulation and a healthy dose of heated gear.
Denali Highway Heaven
Joe Sohm/Visions of America/Getty Images
The Route
Another single-road destination, Alaska’s Denali Highway is a 135-mile stretch of Alaska Route 8 that runs between the towns of Paxson and Cantwell. If you want the full epic Alaska experience, consider heading north at its terminus up Route 3, then catching Route 2 to Route 11 all the way up into Prudhoe Bay.
Where to Stay
You’ll want to start your journey from Denali Highway Cabins in Paxon, which were still the only game in town last time I checked. If you want to break the ride into a two-day journey, Alpine Creek Lodge splits the route around halfway, just before the Susitna River.
Insider Tip
Denali Highway is only open to vehicle traffic from May to October, and is almost entirely made up of semi-maintained gravel roads. The terrain isn’t particularly challenging, but most bikes will need to mind their lines due to mud puddles and occasional ruts.
Sleepless in Seattle Tour
Joel Rogers/Getty Images
The Route
Nearby attractions include awe-inspiring Mount Rainier, rural Bainbridge Island, and scenic Snoqualmie Falls. More ambitious day-trippers might consider heading to Victoria, British Columbia, which can be accessed by ferry.
Where to Stay
The usual big city-style digs are available downtown, but veering toward the outskirts widen your possibilities considerably.
Insider Tip
It’s going to rain. Pack a full suit of raingear, and wherever you stay, make sure they’ve got hot showers.
City of Angels Escape
Pete Saloutos/Getty Images
The Route
While the city of Los Angeles is best known for its abysmal traffic and overpriced gasoline, the surrounding mountains are home to some of the best curves in the country, bar none. Angeles Crest Highway is a local favorite for knee draggers and cruisers alike, while Malibu’s Mulholland Highway is a world-famous destination for sport bikes and exotic cars alike.
Where to Stay
You’ll find no shortage of plush hotels around Hollywood. I’ve always been partial to the retro vibe of Hollywood Roosevelt and its Tropicana Pool bar. If you’d prefer to avoid the strip altogether, you can always treat yourself to a room along the Malibu coast.
Insider Tip
LA’s famous curves can get a bit overcrowded on the weekends, so try hitting them either early in the morning or in the middle of the week for best results. I prefer riding into the city of Azusa and hitting either State Route 39 instead (aka Azusa Canyon) or cutting over onto Glendora Mountain Road to the top of Mt. Baldy.
Northwest Passage Explorer
Sumiko Scott/Getty Images
The Route
Formerly known as the Lewis & Clark Highway, the Northwest Passage Scenic Byway offers 202 miles of raw nature in the form of canyons, waterways, and mountains. For the complete experience, take U.S. Route 12 from the Washington state line to Lolo Pass in Montana.
Visit the Nez Perce National Historic Park at Spalding (just outside of Lewiston), which houses a museum and research center. The spot also features three sites used by the Lewis & Clark Expedition.
The Big Kahuna
Juan Maria Coy Vergara/Getty Images
The Route
On Hawaii’s Big Island, start on Highway 19 and make your way around the east coast of the island, soaking in the jaw-dropping juxtaposition of sweeping ocean views to your left and lush green mountains to your right. Ride down into Hilo and pick up the 11, which will take you into Hawai’i Volcanoes National Park for a volcanic tour you’ll never forget.
Where to Stay
While posh hotels dot the island’s desirable west coast, the recently renovated Waikoloa Beach Marriott Resort and Spa offers a refreshing balance of prime beach access and low-key ambiance.
Insider Tip
Saddle Road offers an efficient route through the heart of the island, but its roller-coaster-like twists and smooth pavement make it worthy of repeat visits just for the thrill.
Southern Utah Spectacular
Avik Chakraborty/Getty Images
The Route
The 54-mile scenic byway that runs along Highway 9 from I-15 to Mt. Carmel Junction is the main attraction here, but don’t rule out the surrounding landmarks. Zion is a great starting point to venture out to Bryce Canyon, Lake Powell, or even the Grand Canyon trip outlined below.
Zion can get insanely crowded during peak season. Try to plan your ride through the park itself during the week, then stick to the surrounding points of interest during the weekend.
Yellowstone Loop
John Morrison/Getty Images
The Route
The 142-mile Grand Loop swings around Yellowstone, touching all the park’s greatest hits, including Mammoth Hot Springs, Fountain Pots and, of course, Old Faithful.
Where to Stay
While campgrounds abound within the park, you’ll want to investigate hotels or vacation rentals in nearby gateway towns as this park has never been more popular for year-round tourism.
Insider Tip
Though it sounds digestible in one day, you’ll want to break the loop into several outings because speed limits cap at 45 mph and sightseeing stops are plentiful. Also, keep an eye out for wildlife, which has a habit of wandering onto the roadway.
Best Motorcycle Trips in the Southwest
Grand Canyon Traverse
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The Route
If you’ve never been to the Grand Canyon before, you’ll likely want to hit Grand Canyon Village at the parks’ South Rim entrance, but if you prefer to skip the touristy stuff and focus on a damn good ride, keep it moving east along Route 64. Catch Highway 89 and make your way north across the open desert through the Navajo Nation, then cross the Colorado River and head over toward Route 67. Route 67 south will land you at the North Rim of the canyon, which offers equally incredible scenery without the body count.
Where to Stay
The Grand Canyon Lodge is the only game in town if you’re looking to stay inside the park on the North Rim. It closes until spring after mid-October, however, so if you’re looking to visit in the fall or winter, your best bet is an Airbnb outside the park.
Insider Tip
Book your accommodations well ahead of time, as venues consistently sell out during peak months.
Wild West Wanderer
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The Route
On the edge of Arizona and Utah, you’ll feel like you stepped into a John Ford western when you saddle up on these long stretches of lonely highway that cut through the sandstone buttes of Monument Valley Navajo Tribal Park. The most recognizable section is the 17-mile Valley Drive loop, but you’ll also want to take in all 45 miles of Highway 163, as the majority of the unique stone monuments in the region can be seen directly off this stretch.
Where to Stay
The View Hotel is a good place to start. Its name couldn’t be more fitting, as every room on the property faces The Mittens, Monument Valley’s most famous formation.
Insider Tip
While the loop road is only 17 miles long, it typically takes at least two hours to complete due to the popularity of the region. Bring your hiking shoes and plan extra time to get up close and personal to some of the monuments for best results.
Lone Star’s Finest
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The Route
Austin may be best known for its quirky downtown and damn fine BBQ, but it’s also one of the only parts of Texas that’s home to some good riding. Get out of town and hit the “Hundred Mile Loop” spanning RR335, RR336, and RR337 for a roller coaster ride through the best of Texas Hill Country.
Where to Stay
Feeling fancy? Book a room at Driskill, InterContinental, Omni, or the W. Want to keep Austin weird? Go for almost any place on Congress Street, like the funky, earthy Hotel San José.
Insider Tip
Don’t miss the opportunity to join Willie, Waylon, and the boys with a detour into Luckenbach, west of Austin. It’s a post office, bar, and music venue all rolled into one, and home to some of the best local music talent of the area.
Some pine for a playboat that’s lighter and more responsive, others want a laid-back flatwater tourer to noddle around calm water with. But if you’re an adventurer, you want adventure-ready kayaks. No matter your current quiver of boats, there’s always one more model you just can’t help but add to your stable.
Almost every kind of double-bladed boater can benefit from the new frontiers in paddling technology that gets more interesting and exciting. Advances in materials and outfitting mean it’s easier than ever to dial in your dream boat.
Inflatable designs and breakthroughs in hull specificities can help you enjoy a few extra miles—not to mention make challenging whitewater just a little bit easier. These great new kayaks will boost your next on-water escape, no matter what you’re paddling into—hell or high water.
Enjoy Extra Miles and More Efficient Output With These Adventure-Ready Kayaks
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1. Advanced Elements AirVolution
Best for Easy Storage/Touring
The key to hard-shell-like performance in a kayak that deflates to fit in your closet is high-pressure drop-stitch layers on its floor and sides (the same tech that makes inflatable SUPs so rigid). An open deck and loungeworthy seat on this rig ups the comfort for longer miles.
The secret is out about the Code: With a flatter, planing hull for rough-water agility, wide stern for stability, and high-rise bow rocker for punching holes, it’ll help unlock your downriver game. Add multiple safety features, plus Contour Ergo Creek outfitting for comfort, and Class V will no longer be classified.
