Since then he’s completed hundreds of swims, crossing rivers and lakes full of caimans, and in several spots, stroking miles down tributaries to find walkable terrain.
Indigenous child with pet monkey asleep on her head; Casey walking along dirt path.Courtesy Image
“I’m lucky to be alive and to get to this stage,” Casey says from Cuzco, Peru, where he’s recuperating from Covid and dental surgery, and prepping for the final 400 miles of his quest. “If I’d really known what I was getting into, I probably wouldn’t have started.”
“Pete’s expedition stands out due to the time, isolation and perseverance it has required,” says Piotr Chmielinski, who, along with American Joe Kane, became the first to paddle the length of the Amazon in 1986. In the decades since, Chmielinski has advised almost every expedition focused on the river and has counseled Casey during his journey. “It’s definitely one of the most important undertakings anyone has done, on the Amazon or anywhere.”
Frankly, Casey is an unlikely person to have taken on such an extreme challenge. With his skinny physique, pasty English complexion, scruffy beard and tattered khaki wardrobe, he looks more disheveled bird-watcher than intrepid adventurer.
Even as a kid he nurtured a fascination with the Amazon, even if it seemed a galaxy removed from his working-class upbringing in Sussex, in the south of England. Out of high school, he dreamed of travel, but the idea of far-flung adventure was alien to his social network. Instead, he toiled as a mason and bricklayer, scraping together enough money to purchase his own home.
For trail running up a peak, or laps around your local trails, start with the Stretch Melange Tee Shirt. If you run cold, add a midlayer like the Stretch Grid Zip Hoodie, then top off your kit with Goldwin’s Pertex Shieldair Jacket. Pertex is air permeable, which suctions excess heat and sweat out faster during high-output activities, keeping you dry and comfortable for longer.
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An eye for innovation
Smart membranes and next-level waterproofing aren’t the brand’s only innovations. When you’ve been around for 70 years, you learn a thing or two about thinking big. You also keep in mind the future matters.
You may not know, but foodstuffs like onion skins and avocado peels have natural (somewhat surprising) pigments. Goldwin uses the root vegetable to make its aptly named Yellow Onion dye. Similarly, its Light Indigo colorway comes from indigo leaf, Black from bamboo charcoal, and clay beige and khaki green from olives. These jewel-toned natural dyes are used to create recycled nylon coats, windbreakers, and caps.
And just recently, Goldwin announced its latest approach to performance-enhancing, planet-saving technologies with Goldwin 0, a new experimental platform consisting of functional clothing for both men and women that exists beyond categories, labels, and borders. The line includes WHOLEGARMENT, the world’s first seam-free wool ski sweater.
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Goldwin’s logo depicts the “shape and magnificent scale of nature,” as well as the dynamism of the athletes who wear their apparel. Whether they’re making gear for world-class athletes or weekend explorers, Goldwin strives for the same purity of experience and exceptional performance. Because only when gear performs seamlessly does the line between man and nature truly disappear.
As of November 15, the start of tourist season, Cuba is easing its travel restrictions, according to Lonely Planet. This includes stopping requiring COVID tests for vaccinated travelers and no longer requiring mandatory quarantine for all visitors unless they contract the novel coronavirus during their travels. That said, and last updated on July 26, 2021, The U.S. State Department warns visitors against travel there, giving it the highest travel advisory warning: 4. “Do not travel to Cuba due to COVID-19,” it says. “Exercise increased caution in Cuba due to demonstrable and sometimes debilitating injuries to members of our diplomatic community resulting in the drawdown of embassy staff.”
Protests have continued in the largest and most populated country in the Caribbean since mid-July. Most recently, on Nov. 15, The New York Timesreported a fizzled nationwide protest called the Civic March for Change, which saw the homes of dissidents surrounded by armed police officers. Protesters planned to continue on their marches that started last summer where they demanded “food, medicine and liberty,” the Times reports. It continues, “In recent days, fearing violence, they toned down their plans.”
With its warm waves, classic cars, and scattered colonial-era buildings, Cuba is a world-class destination. Though the country thrives off tourism—with people staying in its many historic hotels and feasting on the Caribbean and Spanish fare—there’s a push-pull effect between the local economy and the government.
Due to international travel restrictions, Cuba is only allowing direct flights to its capital city, Havana. Because of trade embargoes, the country is still not importing certain goods or services, including cars and planes. Humanitarian supplies are not restricted.
Tourism is allowed in the Caribbean island 90 miles south of Florida but it’s not straightforward. “Travel to Cuba for tourist activities remains prohibited by statute,” says the U.S. Embassy in Cuba. It continues, “However, the Department of Treasury’s Office of Foreign Assets Control (OFAC) has issued general licenses for 12 categories of travel.”
In December 2015, Obama opened the country up to tourism, but in 2019 under Trump, the U.S. banned all flights to Cuba except to Havana. To travel to Cuba, visitors must pick one of a dozen authorized travel categories. (Many outlets recommend using “The Support for the Cuban People” category.) Despite these restrictions, the country continues to welcome visitors. Cubans want Americans to come, but it’s the American policies on Cuba that keep visitors out. That and the ongoing civil unrest. Despite its restricted ports of entry, Cuba is experiencing a period of rapid growth internationally, including millions of Canadians and Europeans who travel there annually.
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“We encourage tourism by working solely with the private sector,” Hasta Cuba former spokesperson Max Nelson says. “We support Cuban small business entrepreneurs, like restaurant chefs who are putting their money together to open their businesses. This way, the money that comes in goes directly to the people.”
With a population of 11 million—and the same length as Italy—the country is more extensive than people realize. Even though new buildings are going up, and some old structures are maintained, others are slowly crumbling away. Dating from colonial times up until 1960, much of the country looks like a land where time stands still.
In some areas, construction cranes are busy rebuilding parts of the capital. “What catches people by surprise is how gorgeous Havana is,” Nelson continues. “It has a really rich history. Their economy was great in the ’40s and ’50s, but in the past 60 years, it hasn’t been fixed up. It’s just now getting improved in the last decade or two.”
Cuba is changing every day and it’s that change that makes this the most important time to visit.
Due to hot, humid summers and hurricane season, it’s best to visit Cuba from November through May. And for those who want to see more than the standard tourist affairs—Cuban cigars and taxi rides in 50s-era cars—there are also emerging activities like rock climbing, hiking, surfing, kayaking, and mountain biking.
Info on surfing in Cuba is available through SurfLibre.org and MagicSeaWeed.com. Areas include Yumuri, outside the city of Baracoa in the south, and La Setenta, which is just outside Havana.
“The Cuba Unknown” is a film of local legendary surfers Frank and Yaya on how riding waves in their home country changed their lives. Film director Corey McLean told Surf Line that although Havana in the north is the most popular destination for tourists, the other side of the island—despite being less developed—is better for waves. “Southern Cuba is quite good…endless potential. All of these points, reef breaks, and just cove after cove after cove. With a decent swell, that area would have like 20 different spots,” he said.
MTBproject.com describes 11 mountain biking areas, with trails ranging from four to 33 miles. Mountain biking info is available through Mogote Adventure. Free Hub Magazine released a feature story on mountain biking in Cuba and a video. The piece describes riding the tallest mountain in Cuba, Pico Turquino (6,476’), located in the southeast part of the island.
Last year, American climber Sasha DiGiulian visited western Cuba to climb outside the town of Viñales, and she made a video of her ascent of the 5.14 “One Inch Punch.”
The climbing website Mountain Project says the walls surrounding Viñales have more than 250 routes with plenty of potential for more. Viñales has three main spots, Mogote del Valle, which has many easy lines and also many hard ones, El Palenque, known for its large caves and tufa climbing, and La Costanera with its 30 routes.
“There’s no mainstream culture here of doing these adventure sports, but now there’s this thriving community there that is pushing for new adventures,” Nelson says.
For info on kayaking in Cuba, see these stories in Men’s Journal. Areas described include Guama, in the south, and Cienfuegos, Guajimico, and Hanabanilla in central Cuba.
As for hiking, Lonely Planet recommends several areas known for their “mist-cloaked valleys, looming mogote hills and biologically rich reserves.” These include the Varahicacos Ecological Reserve on a narrow peninsula in the north, plus trails in Viñales, and hiking to the summit of Pico Turquino.
“Because of this explosion of interest and change, now is the best time to visit,” continued Nelson.
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California’s New Brighton State Beach broke me. With every campground around Big Basin redwoods full, I dropped $35 for the park’s last vacant site only to find myself “camping” behind someone’s house in a residential subdivision. The glow from their TV, not my fire pit, lulled me to sleep.
The “Meinecke System” of public campgrounds—one-way loops with parking spurs—was laid out in the 1930s. In the 1950s, the National Park Service (NPS) undertook the $2 billion “Mission 66” program to upgrade the system “to the new age of automobile tourism.” Since then? Zilch.
“Mission 66 was the last ‘consistent, ambitious, system-wide development program,’ ” reported the NPS in 2020. What’s changed since the ’50s? Start with RVs, trailers, trucks the size of toolsheds, generators, bikes, portable loungers, full kitchens and myriad apparatus produced by the $890 billion camping industry that’s buffaloed the average camper’s footprint beyond John Muir’s worst nightmare.
Oh, yeah, people. According to an NPS study, 2014 to 2018 saw a 22 percent increase in annual camping households and a 72 percent bump in those who camp more than three times a year. That was before the COVID-inspired surge in outdoor recreation.
The NPS system spreads more than 6 million annual overnight visits across just 502 “front-country campgrounds” (i.e., car camps) with 16,648 campsites. More than 40 percent of those sites are located in six marquee parks (Yosemite, Glacier, et al.), leaving parks like Arches in Utah with just 50 sites. No wonder campgrounds have become such cheek-to-jowl zoos that 11 percent of people recently surveyed said they simply opted not to camp rather than face the hassles at NPS campgrounds.
The 2020 Great American Outdoors Act won’t build new campgrounds—it’s devoted to backlogged maintenance. President Biden has asked for $2 trillion in infrastructure funds and in June proposed $2.8 billion for outdoor recreation. Part of that should be used on a well-funded national program that isn’t afraid to knock down a few trees on the way to expanding a 20th-century idea to meet 21st-century growth. Airports, highways, bridges? Absolutely. But while we’re printing money, let’s not neglect those places accessed by the roads less traveled.
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Forget the deer-spotting stereotypes. Backcountry hunting requires trekking for miles over rugged terrain only to retrace your steps while carrying hundreds of pounds of fresh meat on your back.
“Packing out an animal is hard,” says Dustin Diefenderfer, hunter, ultrarunner and founder of MTNTOUGH Fitness in Bozeman, MT. “You need a strong chassis, like an F-150.” Hunter or not, try his signature 45-70 heavy pack workout. It’s designed to build the muscle endurance and strength required for such a daunting task.
The Best Heavy Pack Workout to Build the Strength and Endurance for Backcountry Hunting
Directions
Load a multiday backpack that has a harness system with sandbags (or wrap free weights with towels) to approximate weight. Perform a descending/ascending ladder with the rep scheme: 30, 20, 10, 20, 30. Rest 2 to 5 minutes between sets. Repeat workout three times a week.
Sandbag Curl to PressNate Hill
1. Curl to Press
Grab the pack on both ends, palms facing each other, standing tall with core engaged. Perform a hammer curl, bringing the pack from waist to chest, then immediately push it overhead in a strict shoulder press. Slowly lower the pack to your chest, then waist without using momentum. Beginner: 25 lbs; intermediate: 35 lbs; elite: 45 lbs
Nate Hill
2. Deadlift
Stand with feet slightly wider than hipwidth apart. Hinge at hips to grab pack on both ends, soft bend in knees so you feel hamstrings engage. Drive through heels and extend through hips as you lift pack off the ground to stand. Squeeze glutes and slightly thrust hips forward at top of motion. Go slow and controlled on the descent, keeping a flat back. Beginner: 60 lbs; intermediate: 80 lbs; elite: 105 lbs
North America’s largest waterways are an overlooked asset. Launch your own low-stress, high-yield river adventures at these locations. Pack this durable paddling, kayaking, and rafting gear, then go with the flow.
1. Lower Mississippi River
The Big Muddy has received more recognition as a canoe and kayak destination in recent yearsbut it remains underutilized by paddlers. That’s a shame, because the lower Mississippi River offers countless options for surprisingly wild overnight trips. Launch from Memphis and plan on a five-day, 98-mile float to Clarksdale, MS. The route features a blend of river towns and hidden backwaters, wooded islands and side channels, with camping available on gravel- and sandbars. Pick up rental canoes, arrange a vehicle shuttle, sign up for a guided trip and receive plenty of Mississippi River beta from Quapaw Canoe Company.
2. Columbia River’s Hanford Reach, Washington
If you can get over its checkered history as a nuclear waste burial site from the Cold War, a 51-mile section of the Columbia River in Washington’s Tri-City area is a great off-the-radar float tripfor canoeists or kayakers. The 195,000-acre Hanford Reach National Monument protects the final remaining non-tidal, free-flowing stretch of the Columbia in the US. Wildlife abounds between Priest Rapids Dam and Richland: elk, coyotes, bald eagles and pelicans, along with vibrant stocks of bass, sturgeon and salmon. Camping in the national monument is outlawed but you can pitch a tent on state land near the Ringold Fish Hatchery for an overnight trip. Check out Northwest Paddleboarding in Richland, WA, for outfitting.
3. Suwannee River Wilderness State Trail, Florida
Whitewater in Florida? You’ll find easy rapids and much, much more on this designated water trail spanning over 200 miles across the Florida Panhandle from Georgia to the Gulf of Mexico. The Suwannee River takes its source in the vast Okefenokee Swamp, flowing crystal clear over limestone shelves with deep blue springs, abundant wildlife and free camping on sand beaches. Plan a four- to five-day, 72-mile canoe or kayak trip on the upper river from Fargo to Live Oak. You can paddle the river year-round. Suwannee Canoe Outpost in Live Oak offers rentals, shuttles and logistical support.
4. Upper Missouri River Breaks, Montana
The endless grasslands of Great Plains blend into badlands spires and deep coulees in the Upper Missouri River Breaks National Monument in central Montana, south of Havre. Lewis and Clark history comes alive on the 149-mile stretch of designated Wild and Scenic River, with painted sandstone cliffs and knife-edged box canyons. Set aside four days to paddle the 65-mile White Cliffs section between Coal Banks and Judith landings, east of US 87. You’ll find wilderness campsites virtually unchanged since they were described by the Corps of Discovery and plenty of silence: Motorized vessels are not permitted in the summer months. It’s easy to set your own vehicle shuttle or rely on the services of Missouri River Outfitters in Fort Benton. The company also offers guided trips and canoe rentals.
5. Hudson River Greenway Water Trail, New York
There are multiple options for overnight trips on New York State’s Hudson River. Launch from Henry Hudson Park, just south of Albany, for a 30-mile float trip to Germantown. This section of river features a gentle current and abundant bald eagles, with overnight camping available at Grays Point in Hudson River Islands State Park. Steiner’s Sports offers sales and outfitting services in Valatie and Glenmont, NY, servicing this section of the Hudson River.
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Ultra Trail du Mont Blanc (UTMB) is the top ultramarathon event in the world. Set in Chamonix and traveling through Italy, Switzerland, and France, racers are cheered on as they battle the elements day and night, running for 105 miles around the 15,771-foot Mont Blanc massif.
Jason Schlarb and Meredith Edwards share an inside look into the world of pro racing at the “world series” of ultramarathons. The Season 1 finale of Run Around the World shows the motivation and commitment it takes to finish at the top.
Don’t miss the premiere of Season 2 on Monday, March 22, exclusively on Men’s Journal.
Catch other episodes here:
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Want to avoid resort crowds? Self-powered summit bids and backcountry powder hunts only require two things: careful preparation and the right ski gear.
The Best Ski Gear for Backcountry Touring
Transalp 90 Carbon Fischer skis
Combining ultralight weight and serious versatility for the best experience up and down your mountain of choice, the Transalp’s carbon-fiber guts and Titanal buttressing offer no-compromise control in softer snow, while still able to smoke windblown corn.
Safety features—including silicone pads that temper rotational forces in a crash, RECCO rescue reflectors, and an NFC Medical ID chip—don’t compromise comfort on the Obex BC Spin Helmet, with adjustable ventilation and removable earpads.
When communication is key, BCA’s BC Link Two-Way Radio 2.0 has a snow-repelling, glove-friendly mic that clips outside your pack, and its USB-rechargeable batteries run for days without recharging, even in Arctic temps.
The Mammut La Liste Pro HS Jacket and Bib offer a Gore-Tex Pro extreme weather kit with well-thought ventilation zips, plus stretchy internal (and massive outer) pockets to hold climbing skins and gloves. The paired zip-off bibs, which can snap to the jacket for added weather protection, also feature ample pockets.
The ceramic-reinforced Pittards leather palm on the thin Rab Khroma Tour Infifinium Glove won’t absorb water. A waterproof-breathable Gore-Tex Infifinium body is lined with light double fleece, while low-bulk reverse stitching makes for a tight grip.
Ski with the stability and safety release of an alpine binding with the Marker Duke PT 12 and 16, then free the heel to skin uphill with a free-pivoting toe piece designed to accommodate both tech and alpine ski touring boots.
Osprey’s intuitive (and airplane-friendly) balloon avy pack uses a lightweight electrical system for multiple deployments and rapid recharging. The Soelden Pro Pack 32 front panel holds snow safety tools, versatile straps carry both skis and snowboards, and a stowable sling totes your helmet.
With a moldable shell and liner, the Atomic Hawx Prime XTD 120 is the one boot to rule all mountains. Thinned plastic in selective zones sheds weight, not power transfer. With 54 degrees of flex in walk mode, tech inserts, and buckles that lock open for touring, it’s not the lightest AT boot, but might be the most functional.
